Nigeria’s leather industry is predominantly export-oriented, with nearly 90% of its hides being shipped abroad, mainly to Italy and Spain. The country’s leather exports generate around $600 million in annual revenue. However, the leather products ultimately bear international brand labels, erasing any trace of their Nigerian origins. Nigerian designers are now seeking to reclaim the country’s leather identity by creating high-end products that proudly display their “Made in Nigeria” heritage.
Isi Omiyi, a 56-year-old designer, has created a homegrown brand that produces luxury leather items, including bags, wallets, and shoes. Her mission is to amplify Nigerian craftsmanship and promote the “Made in Nigeria” label. Omiyi’s products are carefully crafted and displayed in her boutique corner in Lagos, with some items carrying price tags of up to $1,500.
In Kano, a state in northern Nigeria, major international luxury brands source leather through intermediaries who link them with local tanners. The state has 11 tanneries, including Ztannery, which processes hides from zero to semi-finished leather. However, modern tanneries with state-of-the-art machinery only accept large orders paid in dollars or euros, cutting off access to local designers who would pay in local currency.
To bridge this gap, many local designers turn to traditional tanneries like Majema, founded in 1932 in the heart of Kano city. Here, everything is done manually, and dozens of tanners clean and dye hides directly on the earthen floor. The tannery exports hides to neighboring countries and Europe, but the finishing work is done abroad, resulting in the “Made in Nigeria” label being replaced by “Made in Italy” or “Made in Spain.”
Efforts are being made to promote Nigeria’s leather industry and reclaim its identity. The Lagos Leather Fair, an annual event founded by Femi Olayebi in 2017, brings together approximately 100 leather professionals in Nigeria’s commercial hub. The state government has also launched a factory in the Mushin neighborhood, aiming to produce leather goods and create 10,000 jobs.
Nigerian designers are stressing the need for better machines, access to high-quality local leather, and training to compete with global leather industry giants. For David Lawal, brand executive for Morin O, promoting Nigerian identity through leather products is crucial. Many customers seek a “timeless expression of heritage” narrated through leather products created in Nigeria and crafted by Nigerians. As Nigeria’s leather industry continues to grow, it is essential to recognize and promote the country’s rich heritage and craftsmanship.
